I suppose it is summertime. Certainly it feels like it in a deserted Rungis. And it is good to know that some summer traditions still live on.

The majority of us have memories of traditional markets in the south of France, full of fresh fruit and vegetables, echoing with the shouts of excitable traders under the blazing sun.

Beyond the cliché though, this area of activity retains its importance in France. More than 55,000 small companies make their living from open air marketplaces. Research shows that they represent over 10 per cent of national fresh produce sales. Fruit and veg accounts for 25 per cent of the food sold in these markets.

They have suffered from the incursion of big retailers, of course, and still do. But there are signs that the trend is reversing: more and more French consumers are looking for truly fresh products and more than anything, advice.

A recent French survey showed fresh produce consumption has a real long-term impact on cancer prevention. Here is an opportunity for open air markets to show their knowledge of the benefits of fruit and vegetables and to deliver some tuition.

The Paris authorities are trying to implement afternoon markets to reflect new Parisian habits. Let's not forget that retailers are among the wholesale markets' most faithful clients.

I holidayed in my native Brittany. There, a small community ñ 200 souls maximum ñ celebrated the first anniversary of its open-air market. Some might see this as another one of our hair-brained schemes but this time it could be more than just hype.