It is interesting to watch this industry turn full circle. Only three or four years ago, it appeared that taste had fallen way down the priority list.

Seed breeders had no qualms admitting that shelf-life was number one on their agenda. Producers around the world were busy increasing yield to optimum levels to fulfil the needs of customers that talked of “quality” but largely relegated taste to an afterthought in defining the word.

Now the World Apple & Pear Association (WAPA) is looking to re-introduce organoleptic ideals to first its producer members and eventually the consumer.

It is a laudable concept ñ one that the vast majority would applaud. It also seems to be in step with the direction of a number of UK retailers, which at least publicly have begun to put flavour back where it belongs.

However, the over-riding customer requirement will always be for consistent supplies of programmed volumes. The customer of course comes first and the plain fact is that no producer will jeopardise its business to produce less, but more tasty apples.

The customers' customer, the consumers ñ whose taste buds have been tested for years by the sterile “flavour” of some mass-produced varieties ñ will for their part be hard to convince that they, rather than profit margin, again head the agenda.

WAPA is right to try and ensure that only the best apples hit the market. Unfortunately, if it succeeded 100 per cent, the consumer might be satisfied with the product, but there wouldn't be enough to go round.