Take organics for instance. A plethora of figures and surveys and some fairly earnest debate appeared on the agenda as consumers experienced some really high prices: e5 a kilo for apricots. Now that is what I call a high price. Criticism often levelled at conventionally grown fresh produce ñ that it is too expensive ñ was channelled elsewhere.

The good news for organics aficionados is that organic production is still rising in France. According to the French Bio Agency, France has more than 11,000 organic farms, which is a nine per cent increase on 2002.

The organic share of French farming remains humble, but nevertheless acreage is rising, jumping from 420,000 hectares in 2001 to 517,000ha in 2002 (+23 per cent). The number of fruit producers has risen by six per cent and growers of organic vegetables have increased in number by 11 per cent.

But the French organic industry will have to learn to team up as organics are getting a much needed boost on a pan-European basis with the announced creation of an international organisation by year-end. This will gather accession countries into the family. Europe certainly has its thinking cap on when it comes to incentivising organic farming policy and the radar is switched towards the east.

Meanwhile, a high-profile survey by the French food safety agency found that organic produce is no healthier than its conventionally grown counterpart. The industry felt stabbed in the back. So the agency softened its stance.

As a well-known organic restaurateur in Paris said recently: “Shame we don't have a Rungis for organics...” I'm not so sure he said that to please the tenants here.