Vegetables jump aesthetic hurdle

Encouraging the uptake of exotic vegetables may appear more difficult than fruit because of the well-appreciated snacking capacity of the latter. However, the growing influence of foreign cultures on cooking has brought ingredients formerly unheard of onto our plates. With celebrity chefs freely using exotic vegetables in their recipes, consumers are increasingly seeking them out in the local supermarket to replicate these experimental dishes at home.

This steady surge in demand is music to the ears of exporters, such as Israeli company Agrexco. As well as championing root vegetables, such as butternut squash, the company is putting its weight behind several other products which some might be surprised to see listed under exotics, such as chillies, horseradish and samphire.

“At Agrexco, chillies are considered part of the exotic category, although if this was asked nationwide, there would be different views from different communities,” says product manager, Mike Caddy. “But again, with the increased number of consumers eating out, purchases are becoming more frequent.”

This year, the product has experienced some fairly significant changes owing to Israel’s challenging political environment. “The chilli season is just underway - all arriving by sea freight due to the increasing fuel costs,” Caddy says. “We are working with a different grower base. Whereas our grower was previously working in the Gaza strip, he is now working with an organic kibbutz at the north end of the Negev. In addition to this there are three more growers in the Arava region so with all this combined we are hoping to build on last year’s success.”

Agrexco is looking into expanding the range of chillies on offer and several new varieties are being considered. “At present we are working with a cayenne type variety which is relatively mild (4-6 scovilles) and therefore suitable for general use and most palates,” Caddy explains. “But I have spent considerable time this summer looking at other varieties bred by Tozer, which can hopefully be adapted to suit production techniques in Israel. There are also other interesting Fresno varieties that we hope to try and produce before the end of the season.” However, when it comes to chillies, the country is both blessed and cursed, Caddy surmises, which means the range is unavoidably restricted: “Israel has the perfect climatic conditions for certain varieties, but the intense labour requirements for harvesting the Thai and Birdseye types prohibits us from producing those varieties,” he says.

Horseradish is similarly classed as an exotic and despite its significant presence in the UK market Caddy is hoping to raise its profile further. “Horseradish is a traditionally Israeli product used in many eastern European dishes,” he says. “In the UK the association is with roast beef, but as far as I’m concerned, in this age of ‘queer gear’ from new developing sources of agricultural products, it has been overlooked. We are now handling two to three pallets per week but there is the potential to do far more to make it a trendier vegetable with the food service and catering industries.”

Agrexco has established a strong source of supply for horseradish. “We have been working with one grower, Udi Asherovich, over the past 10 to 15 years,” Caddy says. “He is unique in supplying a clean, washed product. It is bright white with a good shelf life but obviously not as long as the unwashed product.”

Samphire is a long green vegetable with asparagus-like branches or fleshy-green spikes, which can be sliced into salads or pickled, but is generally steamed or boiled and eaten with fish. Caddy suggests it is extremely versatile, however, and would encourage consumers to try it with meats or different dishes. “I think it is one of the most underrated exotic vegetables in existence as it provides a great fusion of flavours. We are gradually seeing an increase of volume, which is slow but steady.”

According to Caddy, Israel is in a favourable position to grow all such items. “The weather conditions in Israel, the intense sunlight and temperatures, provide our products with real flavour as opposed to those from our competitors.”

India is similarly fortunate, says managing director of Kay Bee Exports, Kaushal Khakhar. “As one unique continent, with distinctly diverse microclimates within its different regions, India’s definite advantage is the ability to produce a wide range of products for large periods of the year,” he says. However, this is countered with some strong competition from other corners of the globe. “Our biggest international competitors are Cyprus, Jordan, Mexico and Brazil,” says Khakhar. “The reason why India is not able to compete is the comparatively higher freight cost. The gap between supply and demand ensures that airlines are able to charge astronomical freight rates. However, the situation is gradually improving with an increased number of airlines entering the market thereby increasing the total cargo capacity.”

At the same time, growing conditions are steadily improving in India as agriculture is being brought centre-stage. “The Indian government is very keen to promote Indian exports and hence is undertaking major initiatives to develop infrastructure pertaining to cold-chain and the value-addition of horticultural produce.”

Kay Bee Exports specialises in producing and exporting a wide array of fruits and vegetables native to India. The company sends around 4,000 tonnes of fruit and vegetables to Europe, a significant proportion of which arrives in the UK.

According to Khakhar, Kay Bee deals in a wide range of Indian vegetables, including okra; dudhi, a bottle-shaped marrow-like gourd also known as Malanga; karela, a small pointed gourd; various chillies; mangetout; sugar-snap peas; saragwo, a seeded narrow bean also known as a drumstick; and curry leaves.

Khakhar says that thanks to the introduction of ‘ethnic’ as well as exotic fixtures in-store, products such as okra, dudhi and karela are enjoying higher priority in the UK supermarkets.

“Okra is our biggest success story,” he says. “We are able to supply excellent quality for nine months in a year. Okra is widely expected to become a mainstream line within a few years. We are currently doing large volumes of okra in the wholesale markets as well as to specialist importers who supply to the UK supermarkets.” Working with more than 200 contract growers in different parts of India, Kay Bee is able to offer uninterrupted supplies of okra for nine months in a year.

Khakhar says the key innovation for Kay Bee this year has been pre-packed versions of various vegetables. The company is now offering its clients vegetables packed in a range of punnets and pouches.