While not all supermarkets have been tarred with the same brush, reports circulating in the national media that the multiples have not taken up the English plum crop at a time when the government and the National Farmers’ Union are extolling the need to source more home-grown fruit and vegetables can have done the retail sector few favours.
While yields of this traditional stonefruit are notoriously unstable, this year is by common consent a vintage season, following the famine of 2008.
Yet, despite the lip service paid to the value of selling British products, there appears in some instances to have been a marked reluctance to give adequate shelf space as a celebration of the event. It could be argued, of course, that having been caught short last year, buyers were not prepared to risk a repeat performance, hence the inroads that continental plums have continued to make as autumn arrives. In turn, this may have been linked to price pressure when cheaper alternatives were available.
Whatever the reasons, several growers have claimed that crops have been dumped or left on the tree through lack of expected programmes. Historically, it is not the first time that the industry has faced hardship. In the 1970s, it was surprising that the plum industry continued to exist at all. The limited retail appeal resulted in the Apple and Pear Development Council, which appeared to have a slightly wider remit, negotiating a sales package with Asda to give Evesham growers a boost.
It may not have returned the fruit of this region to the prominence it enjoyed during World War I fruit as a staple ingredient in jam sent to the troops on the Somme, but the initiative breathed life into orchards, many of which were older than the growers themselves.
Asda, I remember, was prepared to take as many plums as were available, but on certain conditions that reflected how far behind the industry had become when it came to marketing.
While local varieties Pershore Purple and Yellow Egg had disappeared from the scene, the retailer was prepared to accept Victoria and Marjorie Seedling provided they were properly graded, had uniform colour and a phrase that stuck in my memory, “there were no leaves or twigs in the cartons”.
Now, at least, times have moved on. The plum industry may not reflect the same buoyancy as experienced by cherry growers and, indeed, probably the most worrying aspect is based on DEFRA figures showing that orchards have declined by around a third over the past decade. But new varieties are coming on stream to support Victoria, which remains the bedrock with a reputation akin to Cox apples in consumers’ minds.
If there is something to be learnt therefore, surely it is that if there is a will, there is way, particularly if the contraction continues after this season.
In recent years, the trade attitude towards a shrinking Cox crop has at least stabilised, allowing the apple to ride the storm mainly through improved communication between grower and retailer.
Experience continues to show that when growers, marketing desks and retailers get the timing right, it can be remarkably effective - if the will is there.