Edible flowers such as nasturtiums, chrysanthemums, hibiscus, marigolds, lavender and, in more modern times, chives, orchards and courgette buds have been prized in the kitchen for centuries, for their unique taste, texture, visual appeal and medical properties.
The first known use of edible flowers was as early as the first century BC in the letters of Roman philosopher Cicero, who ate stews dressed with chard and mallow flowers. The use of dandelions as a herb gets a mention in the Bible and the first edible flower recipe book was published in France in the 16th century by Doctor Michel de Nostredame, better known as Nostradamus.
Rose petals, saffron, borage and the like have always had a use in Middle Eastern and South American countries, and 13th and 14th century Anglo-Norman cuisine included many edible flowers, such as roses, hawthorne blossoms and elderflowers.
The use of edible flowers for culinary purposes really came into its own in the UK during the Victorian era, when they were particularly popular in salads. Violets, borage, primroses, clove pinks and nasturtiums were staples of a basic salad and flowers were preserved in vinegar for use during the winter months.
More recently, the last 15 years have seen a resurgence in the use of edible flowers in US cookery practices and the UK is slowly getting up to speed, with top-end chefs sourcing from companies such as Koppert Cress in the Netherlands and Agrexco in Israel.
Producers in the UK are also picking up on the trend, with substantial growers such as Lincolnshire’s JE Piccaver & Co (JEPCO) investing time and effort into future production, and smaller growers throughout the country adding edible flowers to their selection to boost their farm shop offer.
In the same way as the use of fresh herbs came back into fashion and has proven to be more than just a passing trend, now forming a steady part of the salad sector, so edible flowers seem to be slowly making their mark on the industry - becoming more than just part of the bouquet garnis or garnish in foodservice circles. Furthermore, like a lot of niche items, edible flowers have managed to survive the recession and remain popular by offering that all-important point of difference.
“Chefs are always very partial to using edible flowers,” says JEPCO’s Nick Sandall, “and I think their popularity will only increase in the UK. There is definitely a market out there to tap into. Cornflowers, lavender and dandelions seem to be favourites and the high-end chefs are always going to provide demand for them.”
JEPCO has been trialling edible flowers at its site in Spalding for the last two years and has managed to grow a wide assortment, including nasturtiums, borage, Anise Hyssop, calandula, chives, common sage, Sweet Williams and marigolds, with the hope of producing them commercially when the time is right.
On the other side of the spectrum, Israel-based Agrexco has been dealing with edible flowers for 20 years. “We have found that the most popular varieties in the UK are pansies and violas, followed by nasturtiums,” says Agrexco UK’s sales manager Mike Caddy. “This is probably due to their decorative appeal and colour, plus the fact that they are more familiar to consumers. The rest of Europe, in particular the Netherlands, is more adventurous and accepting of the other varieties.
“Sales in the UK are behind Europe and the US, where demand is higher. I think and hope that we will catch up in time. We are getting more adventurous with food preparation in the UK, but still lag behind. We need to understand how different flowers have not only aesthetic appeal, but some also add considerable flavour to dishes.”
So are edible flowers a passing trend, or are they here to stay? As with any fresh produce, profit is more obtainable when end users know how to use, store and care for them. The product’s value in top-end catering and restaurant establishments is obvious, but now only education - of both chefs and consumers - along with further promotion can push the specialist product towards creating real, sustainable profit for growers and catering suppliers.
“Edible flowers have to be laid out properly for the customer,” advises Sandall. “It is all about presentation and it has to be done professionally. Like anything in this industry, it is about having a good-quality product.”
Micro-vegetable expert Koppert Cress produces a range of modern edible flowers and has seen a big uplift in demand for products such as Karma orchids, Dushi Button, Sechuan Button, apple blossom and jasmine blossom for the foodservice industry and invites chefs to its development kitchen in Monster to learn how to cook with the products. The company receives rave reviews from both the end users and the catering suppliers it serves, and also promotes their uses and advantages at trade and consumer shows across the UK.
“Customers in the UK are always looking for some nice edible flowers, because they are a fantastic finishing touch on the plate,” says Koppert Cress’s UK marketing manager Anneke Cuppen. “Karma orchids are the most popular ones, because their shelf life is very good and they are already well known.”
The popularity of the traditional kitchen garden at restaurants like Raymond Blanc’s Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons and in TV programmes such as chef Jamie Oliver’s Jamie At Home are slowly influencing consumers, and products like edible flowers are a perfect addition to such sites. Will we see packs of grow-your-own edible flowers on sale soon, as we have with herbs, speciality mushrooms and chillies? Will the product make its way onto UK retailers’ shelves, as it has in Europe and South America?
Sandall believes the demand is there. “Seven years ago, I had an organic market stall in Notting Hill with a marigold offer,” he says. “I explained to consumers what the product could be used for and provided a cookery demonstration, and we sold out. We have to educate the public in the use of edible flowers; there are so many possibilities past salads. Courgette flowers have proved particularly popular, with a small courgette attached or not. From a presentation point of view, chefs can’t go wrong.”
The offer is gradually breaking into retail in the form of farm shops and farm-gate sales. Smaller producers -such as Robin Williams’ Nama Yasai, a grower of Japanese vegetables in Lewes - are finding that the product works well as part of a mix of small crops for local sales and restaurants, and The Garlic Farm on the Isle of Wight has had considerable success with garlic flowers.
But there are problems on the horizon and with edible flower production comes the inevitable issues that delicate products bring. JEPCO has been stopped in its tracks this year. “The biggest problem is that edible flowers have to be washed and cleaned, and at the moment we cannot grow them with that guarantee,” says Sandall. “We do not use sprays, but it is a soiling issue and you cannot account for the presence of insects. Washing starts the deterioration of the bloom and petals, and reduces the shelf life of the flower. The reason why we have not pushed this out commercially is purely practical and in reference to food hygiene -we are still on our journey and there must be some technology we can tap into without using lots of water.
“We know we can grow a large assortment of edible flowers and have been experimenting with a lot of different colours. They are a great product to grow and you do not need a lot of space to produce them in. We harvest in June, depending on the plant, and they will continue to harvest the more you pick them. They are similar to basil and need to be kept dry and cool.”
Agrexco supplies a wide range of edible flowers grown by producers Shimon and Shula Mizrachi. The Mizrachi farm is in the Lod area, south of Ben Gurion Airport, and devotes 20 hectares to the cultivation of 35 varieties of edible flowers, including antirrhinum, begonias, anise flowers, basil flowers, carnations, courgette flowers, daisies, dianthus, geraniums, dahlias, lavender, nasturtiums, pansies, violas and zinnias, to name a few. Some five per cent of total production goes to the UK and its major markets are the US and Europe.
“The growing season begins in October and goes through to about June,” says Caddy. “From then on, the weather is too intense; the very high temperatures mean the plants lose energy and the quality fades. Once the weather cools, replanting takes place. All plants are grown in sandy soil under protected cropping, none in open fields.”
Koppert Cress’s products are grown in pots in Dutch greenhouses and are harvested year round. The amount the company produces depends on demand and its production is flexible enough to up its volume with reasonable notice.
“If you have a good product and good market strategy, edible flowers can be profitable and we intend to introduce more edible flowers in the coming year,” says Cuppen. “More and more new varieties and types will be introduced, because our customers are always looking for new things. We aim to keep edible flowers interesting for chefs and introduce new types with a good shelf life and flavour.”
Caddy is encouraged by the recent revival of interest in edible flowers. “The emphasis on presenting food that is as good to eat has encouraged a revival in the art of cooking with flowers,” he says. “Garnishing with flowers and herbs has long been popular and a random scattering of petals or leaves can transform the appearance of a dish.
“The subtle flavour and texture that flowers can introduce to a dish suit the move towards light, simple flavours and fresh, natural food. There is a return to home baking, along with the traditional crafts such as knitting and crochet - all family core values, something steadfast in this unstable economic climate. The last time that edible flowers caught the interest of UK consumers was back in 2000 and it is heartening to know that there is a reawakening. The more they get featured in articles or on numerous cookery programmes, the more confident retailers will be to stock them.”
So is history repeating itself? Only time will tell if edible flowers become a staple in the UK kitchen once again. But one thing is certain - consumer interest in niche products is at an all-time high and with edible flowers fitting the bill for both top-end chefs and consumers following the eat-in trend, this is the moment for the fresh produce industry to act.
Caddy believes the potential is huge. “Adding an edible flower to a cocktail lifts it and makes it look like something special,” he says. “It costs little to the retailer, but pushes the price up to the customer, who is paying for the wow factor. Including nasturtiums or pansies in a simple green leaf salad makes it look special, meriting a higher price on the menu.
“I believe that edible flowers could be part of the retail offer and our customers have shown a considerable amount of interest. It might convert to higher sales, but it is still early days.”
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